Jennifer and Salvatore Fuccillo, owners of Olive del Mondo, stand among the light-proof containers of vinegar and olive oil in their Providence store. The inventory can be tasted before purchasing and is bottled in the store. Providence Journal / Sandor Bodo
First of all, you want to feel the burn.
A peppery bite at the back of the throat is a sign that you're tasting high quality extra virgin olive oil, said Jennifer Fuccillo, who with her husband, Salvatore Fuccillo, owns the Providence oil and vinegar shop Olive del Mondo.
Flavorwise, much like wine, extra virgin olive oils can range from floral or grassy to buttery or creamy, Fuccillo explained after sniffing and swilling a tablespoon of a Chilean oil.
And don't forget that it's a fresh fruit juice, she said.
"We're always hammering that into people's heads," Jennifer Fuccillo said. "As soon as you crush, the oil starts to go bad, so you want to consume it as soon as possible."
That's just some of what the Fuccillos cover in their Olive Oil 101 class.
The couple isn't alone in their quest to spread the word about and sell premium oils; their East Side shop is one of three olive oil and balsamic vinegar tasting bars that have recently opened in Rhode Island.
Olive del Mondo, along with Newport's Virgin & Aged and North Kingstown's Narragansett Bay Olive Oil Co., offer dozens of varieties to sample before buying. Inventory is stored in light-proof stainless steel vessels, or fustis, and bottled in the stores.
Options range from oils made from a single varietal, or type of olive, to flavored versions infused with essences such as blood orange and wild mushroom. The shops also stock traditionally aged balsamic vinegar from Modena, Italy, and flavored white and dark balsamic vinegars.
"It's definitely a trend," said Jillian Gregoire, who runs Narragansett Bay Olive Oil Co. with her father, Michael Gregoire.
"People are getting into the cooking possibilities that come with the different flavors, and are also starting to become more aware of the health benefits of the oil," she added.
Extra virgin olive oil has high levels of healthy omega fats, antioxidant polyphenols, and the anti-inflammatory compound oleocanthal.
Those properties are fully present only in fresh extra virgin olive oil , which has a shelf life of about 18 months when stored properly, Jennifer Fuccillo said.
The bottles that line supermarket shelves do not necessarily contain pure extra virgin olive oil, according to a 2010 University of California Davis study. The study found that 69 percent of imported oil samples labeled as extra virgin failed to meet USDA standards, containing defects such as rancidity, oxidation and adulteration with cheaper oils.
To ensure freshness, the Fuccillos stock olive oils from the Northern Hemisphere (Mediterranean, California) in the winter and spring and carry products from the Southern Hemisphere (Australia, Chile) in the summer and fall.
They also display lab results confirming the authenticity of their oils, sourced from a California-based wholesaler. "Scientific tests are the only way to verify they're extra virgin," Jennifer Fuccillo said.
Beth Remy, who owns Newport's Virgin & Aged, gets her oils from the same distributor. She opened her shop about a year and a half ago, seeing the value of sampling before buying.
"I'd go into gourmet shops and see all the beautiful bottles, but I didn't like the idea of buying something for, say, $30 without tasting it first," she said.
Inspiration for the Gregoires' shop came from the olive oil tasting rooms they discovered while visiting wineries in Napa Valley, Calif. With the exception of three Italian vinegars, their entire inventory is from North America.
"We like supporting American farmers, and it allows us to order small quantities, so the product is not just sitting in our back room," Jillian Gregoire said.
The Fuccillos were drawn into the world of olive oil after experiencing a harvest, crush and tasting while on a trip to Italy.
"We did the whole, 'Oh my gosh, this is what it's supposed to taste like,' " Jennifer Fuccillo said. "We came back here and were like, 'Where can we get it?' "
Olive Oil Tips
The best way to taste olive oil is to sip it straight. Skip the bread if you can.
To ensure freshness, look for a crush date on the bottle and do not consume oil that is more than 18 months old.
Similar to red wine or dark chocolate, more bitter tasting olive oils tend to have greater health-promoting properties.
Store oil away from direct light and heat sources.
For more information, read Tom Mueller's book "Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil."
The Details
Olive del Mondo, 815 Hope St., Providence, (401) 383-5733, olivedelmondo.com
Virgin & Aged, 395 Thames St., Newport, (401) 849-3029, virginandaged.com
Narragansett Bay Olive Oil Co., 4 Brown St., Wickford, (401) 295-2500, nboliveoil.com
jpelletier@providencejournal.com
(401) 277-7281
[Source: The Providence Journal]
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